東京都台東区浅草橋にある「鮒佐」では、独自の味が楽しめる佃煮を販売している。昆布、あさり、ごぼう、海老、しらすなどの素材が詰められ、しっかりとした醬油の辛口で味付けされている。創業は1862年で、佃煮の原点は幕末の佃島で生まれたとされる。現在は五代目の佐吉さんが伝統を守りながら佃煮を製造しており、30分ほどで仕上げられる。手間を惜しまず丁寧に作り上げられた佃煮は、ぜひ味わってみたい逸品だ。
Exclusive Taste of “Funasa” Tsukudani
In Asakusabashi, Taito-ku, Tokyo, you can find the exclusive taste of “Funasa” tsukudani. When you open the package, you’ll find neatly packed tsukudani with kombu, asari clams, burdock, shrimp, and whitebait exuding a delightful fragrance. With a robustly seasoned soy sauce, just a sprinkle makes rice more enjoyable. This tsukudani, without any unwanted flavors, showcases the essence of the ingredients and presents a different Edo-style taste compared to the sweet and savory concoctions.
Established in the second year of the Bun’kyu era (1862). While there are various theories about the origin of tsukudani, during the late Edo period, it referred to a mixture of salted fish on Tsukudajima (now Chuo Ward). The founder saw potential in this and refined it by using soy sauce and cooking each ingredient separately. Since then, when people mention tsukudani, they refer to “Funasa,” and this expertise has been passed down through generations alongside the name “Sakichi.” The current fifth-generation Sakichi, at 59 years old, took over 14 years ago and is now passing on the tradition to the next generation.
They set up an iron pot on the hearth, add the ingredients. Narabrai wood is lit, and after about 30 minutes, Edo-style tsukudani is ready. The heat varies for each ingredient, and fine adjustments with firewood require visual and instinctual judgment.
Renowned figures like Izumi Kyoka and Kobayashi Hideo appreciate the tsukudani, which also appears in the rakugo story “Hocho” with the line “The tsukudani from Funasa tastes so good. You’re quite extravagant with your meals, aren’t you?” How is this tsukudani made? The kitchen is located in the back of the shop, in a semi-basement dirt floor. At 7 in the morning, the fifth-generation Sakichi, his son Mantoku (29 years old), and three artisans gather to start making tsukudani.